Dogs That Live Better Than Us
POLYOTNYANY FACTORY – THE GONCHAROV ESTATE
raveling with a four-legged friend is not nearly as difficult as it may seem at first glance. Based on our own experience, we will share and show you how to do it beautifully.
Snoopy and I don’t have a country house, but the whole planet belongs to us, which we eagerly explore
We have been visiting the Polyotnyany Factory since 2021. Our first trip there was to see the exhibition of artist Katya Rozhkova, ‘The White School,’ organized in the House of Factory Owner Shchepochkin. This three-story stone mansion in Russian Classicist style, with columns, porticoes, and balconies, stands on the high riverbank. During World War II the Germans turned it into a stable, and when retreating, they mined it. The locals discovered the plot and saved the house. Remarkably, it still preserves rare ceiling frescoes and late 18th-century interiors, with ornate stoves and parquet floors. After the Revolution, the Shchepochkin house became a school, and Katya’s exhibition theme was a homage to the history of the place and the collective childhood memories.
Our first journey here was in July, and after the stuffy Moscow heat, we were suddenly embraced by coolness, scents, and the grandeur of Great Interiors and Subtle Art.
We enjoyed the exhibition, and took a short waltz with Snoopy under the painted ceilings, admired the picturesque river valley from the balcony. Snoopy loves to pose for pictures, and we took some truly atmospheric photos.
Whenever we visit the Goncharovs, we stay at the estate’s Hotel. The building is a protected 18th-century architectural monument that once housed the estate’s Carriage House. The two-story stone hotel and the Groom’s House (which is now a Restaurant—spelled just so!) are the only structures that survived the war. The half-meter-thick stone walls reliably protect you from summer heat and Epiphany frost. Some rooms overlook the river, and many even feature their own libraries! You certainly won’t be bored if it rains, or if you simply wish to sit by the river with a book.
Trust our experience: this is one of the best dog-friendly hotels and restaurants in Russia. Here the size or weight of your four-legged companion doesn’t matter, PROVIDED you can vouch for his good manners. In the hotel lobby you will see the Goncharov coat of arms, and begin to gradually immerse yourself in history.
At that time the estate with its park and ponds was also founded.
Built in the Classicist style, the Goncharov Estate, was one of the largest and most lavishly decorated estates in Russia. By the early 20th century, only a wing of the main house survived, which was once used as a theater, while the surrounding park fell into disrepair. Part of the grounds hosted fairs, which are now once again held twice a year.
There is another reason to visit the Polyotnyany Factory—either in summer on Pushkin’s Day, or in autumn for Natalya’s Day.
The main museum building was carefully restored in the 1970s–80s. There is even a version that the estate may have been designed by the great Bartolomeo Rastrelli. The Museum of the Main House is a must-visit, showcasing numerous unique exhibits. For example: Kaluga province was the only place in Russia where canaries were bred for sale—you can admire and listen to live birds in one of the halls. There is even a charming toy theater, which pays homage to the estate’s illustrious past.
HISTORY OF THE ESTATE AND MUSEUM
In 1718, by decree of Peter I, Kaluga merchant Timofey Karamyshev founded a Sailcloth Factory here, on the Sukhdrev River. In 1720, together with Grigory Shchepochkin and Afanasy Goncharov (the great-great-grandfather of Natalya Goncharova, wife of Alexander Pushkin), he established a Paper Mill.
It was under the Goncharovs that Polyotnyany Factory gained fame throughout the empire: paper from here was shipped to St. Petersburg and Moscow, used for printing books, journals, and state decrees.
Once, we were fortunate to attend a truly unique performance. In 2021, some of my talented friends achieved the Impossible—despite the building having no water or electricity, where snow covering the windowsills and floors in the winter, they staged a fantastic operatic evening.
They performed the opera ‘Tertia’ in three acts at the Shchepochkin House. The performance began in the warm glow of early evening. Music by Schumann, Schubert, and Rimsky-Korsakov filled the various halls of the estate, drifting through the enfilades of rooms. The third act was performed by candlelight on the balcony overlooking the grand entrance—and, believe it or not, half the village came to hear the enchanting music.
Snoopy was also fortunate to experience the Great Art of Opera, since we arrived at the Polyotnyany Factory in the afternoon and listened to rehearsals through the open windows while strolling on the grass around the Shchepochkin House.
In memory of the factory’s glorious past, there is another fascinating interactive museum—the Paper Museum ‘Buzeon.’ Here you can discover the complete history of papermaking, touch nearly every exhibit, and even craft your own paper to take home.
We highly recommend a visit to the beautiful old city of Kaluga, just half an hour from the estate. We usually go for a stroll along Voskresenskaya Street, now considered a historical monument street. Though not long, it perfectly conveys the atmosphere of a 19th-century merchant town and showcases preserved architecture.
Be sure to peek into the archways and courtyards, even if they look ordinary from the outside. Once we stumbled upon a true architectural treasure—a wrought-iron staircase over a century old.
A leisurely walk down this street to the Oka River embankment is our favorite pastime. Along the way, you encounter both restored buildings and crumbling ruins (such as the Goncharov mansion).
You’ll see old churches with worn walls and shabby columns—everything true lovers of authentic architecture admire. Snoopy will love the endless corners to sniff out: greenery, wooden fences, cozy cottages with carved window frames—all the little joys dogs adore.
In central Kaluga, be sure to step into the courtyard of the Zolotarev estate and snap a photo—‘paws on cobblestones.’
During one visit we discovered the contemporary art gallery PROARTS and spent half the day there—had coffee, chatted with the owners, and staged a photoshoot for Snoopy.
You will also surely find cozy cafés and restaurants with homemade cuisine and warm atmosphere, where you can enjoy lunch, while your companion will be offered water, and perhaps even a treat.
While staying at Polyotnyany Factory, in the evenings we love to walk around the settlement. Several merchant mansions still remain, reflecting the old way of life. Today, the place feels more like a genuine village. During our strolls, we always meet locals, exchange greetings, hear dogs barking, frogs croaking, cows lowing. Sometimes we reach the village school. The scent of the surrounding fields, grass, flowers all around is simply indescribable. We delight in sunsets and mists.
Sometimes Snoopy and I rent a motorboat and ride along the river that circles the peninsula where the Park is located.
And the view of the Shchepochkin House—standing proudly on the high riverbank, illuminated by sunset—is truly priceless.
But we come here for the Park itself. Just imagine—it was designed according to all the principlesof English landscape gardening, and the pathways were laid during the Goncharov era. Catherine the Great, Kutuzov, Alexander Pushkin, and countless others once strolled here. Natalya Goncharova, future wife of Pushkin, grew up in this very estate. Here’s an idea: bring beautiful dresses and stage an atmospheric 19th-century style photoshoot.
For your walks you can choose a route to your liking: the Path of Solitude, the Poet’s Path, or the English Path.
The park entrance itself is a masterpiece of landscape design: towering oaks and linden trees (blooming and fragrant in July), flanking the Main Alley, with rectangular English ponds dug on both sides. Snoopy once fell into one while trying to catch a frog—so be careful, nature here is irresistibly charming. Sometimes horses and foals graze in the park meadows.
Every path, whether long or short, eventually leads you to the Pushkin Pavilion, and approaching it you suddenly ‘meet’ Alexander Sergeyevich himself, proudly seated in his chair, gazing at the river. The rose petals scattered generously on the grass add to the romance—remember that weddings and other ceremonies are often held here.
Do also remember the fierce mosquitoes—repellent is a must.
On the way back to Moscow, we recommend stopping at the art park Nikola-Lenivets. It is currently the largest park of its kind in Europe. Sometimes it feels as if you are at the Venice Architecture Biennale. All art objects here are created by celebrated Russian artists. The works are monumental, and Snoopy in the photos often looks like a miniature dog, perfectly adding scale.
The park is vast, yet easy to navigate. In warm weather, it attracts crowds. Convenient pathways lead to the installations, and you may even see wildlife: once, on the way to the Bobur structure, we came across a beaver in an overgrown pond.
The reconstruction of the Trinity Church (a project by the Terra architectural bureau) is absolutely unmissable. In 2021, we even managed to bring Snoopy inside! But if not, it’s not a problem to leave your furry friend with a companion and go inside. It is a very light and beautiful place.
One day is enough for a general acquaintance with the park. Accommodation is not easy to find, as most cottages lack amenities, but sleeping there is blissful. The park’s resident dog, Belyash, is already an internet star. Naturally, Nikola-Lenivets is extremely pet-friendly: accommodation, cafés, art objects—all welcome your pets.
Unquestionably recommended!
And finally, one of the most vivid impressions on the way home—in June 2025, we encountered endless lupin fields throughout our journey. Cars pulled over everywhere, people stopped to take photos and gather bouquets. It was breathtakingly beautiful and unforgettable. Choose your travel time wisely. Ideally, come on a Sunday evening, when weddings have ended, and you can enjoy the Estate and Park entirely to yourself.
Before leaving, be sure to buy pies at the Restaurant (baked fresh on site). The pastries are simply divine—our favorites: sugar buns and cabbage pies.
We wish you and your pets only pleasant impressions and new scents!
together. One of our favorite places is the Goncharov Estate, which in 2018 was recognized as the best museum-reserve in the Kaluga region. It is located about 200 km, or a three-hour leisurely drive from Moscow. Despite his extensive travel experience, Snoopy still doesn’t handle car rides/trips very well, so I give him half of a children’s motion sickness tablet. My VIP passenger rides in the back seat, secured with a harness. Most of the time he either sleeps or gazes out the window. Traditionally, every hundred kilometers, I try to make a stop for coffee and Snoopy’s ‘doggy business.’